What to Look for in a Stud Dog: A First-Timer's Checklist

Everything you need to evaluate before you book — in one place

If this is your first time breeding your female, the process of finding and selecting a stud dog can feel overwhelming. There are health certificates to review, contracts to sign, timing to nail, and a lot of decisions to make under time pressure once your female comes into season.

This checklist is designed to cut through the noise. Work through it methodically and you will have covered everything that matters.

1. Health Testing

Health testing is the single most important factor in evaluating a stud dog. No amount of good looks or impressive titles compensates for a dog with untested or cleared genetic disease.

Every stud should have:

• OFA hip and elbow evaluation (or PennHIP for hips)
• CAER (formerly CERF) eye examination — done annually by a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist
• Relevant DNA panels for his breed (PRA, DM, VWD, MDR1, and others depending on breed)
• A current cardiac evaluation if the breed requires it (Cavaliers, Boxers, Dobermans, and others)

Ask for copies of all certificates — not just verbal confirmation. OFA results can be verified at ofa.org. DNA results should come with official certificates from an accredited laboratory such as Embark, Paw Print Genetics, or UC Davis.

2. Age

A responsible stud owner will not breed their dog before he has completed his health testing. For most breeds, this means:

• Minimum age of 18–24 months for OFA hip/elbow evaluation (OFA requires 24 months for official certification)
• Annual eye exams that remain current
• A cardiac exam completed after the dog reaches two years of age for breeds prone to heart disease

A stud under two years of age may not have completed all of his evaluations. That is not automatically a dealbreaker, but make sure the tests that can be done at his age are done, and that the owner has a clear plan for the remaining ones.

3. Pedigree

Ask for the stud's pedigree going back at least three generations. You are looking for:

• Recognizable, reputable kennels in the lines
• AKC or breed club registration
• Titles on ancestors (conformation, performance, working titles) that demonstrate a track record of quality

If you are breeding a purebred litter, both parents must be registered with the same registry (AKC, UKC, etc.) for the puppies to be registerable.

4. Temperament

A stud's temperament is heritable. If you want confident, friendly, trainable puppies — start with a confident, friendly, trainable stud.

Look for:

• Ease around strangers (including you, the dam owner)
• Calm, curious exploration of new environments
• No signs of fear, anxiety, or aggression
• Good engagement with people

Ask for video of the dog in multiple settings. If the owner is reluctant to provide this, take note.

5. Conformation

Your stud should be structurally sound and representative of the breed standard, even if he is not a show dog.

• Correct bone structure and movement
• Appropriate size and weight for the breed
• No obvious structural faults (cow hocks, slipped hocks, barrel chest in breeds not prone to it)
• Coat, color, and markings consistent with the breed standard (or the intended cross, if breeding a hybrid)

6. Proven vs. Unproven

A proven stud has already sired at least one litter and has documented offspring. An unproven stud has not yet produced a litter.

Proven studs give you confidence in fertility and give you references from prior dam owners you can actually contact.

Unproven studs may be excellent candidates — especially young dogs who have completed all health testing — but carry more uncertainty. A responsible owner of an unproven stud will often offer a reduced fee or a free-return guarantee to account for the uncertainty.

7. Brucellosis Testing

Both dogs must be tested for Brucella canis before any mating takes place. Brucellosis is a bacterial infection that causes reproductive failure and is transmissible between dogs during breeding. It can also, in rare cases, infect humans.

The test is inexpensive and straightforward. If a stud owner refuses to provide a current brucellosis test, do not proceed.

8. The Stud Contract

Every breeding should be backed by a written contract that clearly states:

• The stud fee and when it is due
• How many natural matings or AI attempts are included
• What happens if the breeding does not result in a litter (free return? Partial refund? No recourse?)
• Who pays for AI costs if natural mating is not possible or successful
• What registration documentation will be provided

Do not breed without a signed contract. Verbal agreements are nearly impossible to enforce and often lead to disputes.

9. References

Ask the stud owner for contact information for at least two dam owners from previous litters. Then actually contact them.

Ask those dam owners:

• Was the stud owner easy to communicate with?
• Did everything go as agreed in the contract?
• How were the puppies — health, temperament, quality?
• Would you use this stud again?

A stud owner who is proud of their dog's offspring will have references ready. One who hesitates has something to hide.

10. Logistics

Finally, confirm the practical details before you commit:

• Location: How far do you need to travel? Will the stud owner accommodate cooled/shipped semen?
• Timing: The stud owner needs adequate notice — do not call the day your female starts her season
• AI availability: Does the stud owner have a relationship with a reproductive veterinarian if natural mating is not possible?
• Communication: How responsive is the owner? Fast, clear communication is a good sign about how the whole process will go

The One-Sentence Version

A great stud dog is healthy (documented), sound in body and mind, registered, backed by a written contract, and owned by someone who answers your calls.

Everything else — price, distance, color genetics, pedigree prestige — is secondary to those fundamentals.

Start your search on The Stud Dog and filter by breed to find tested, listed studs in your area.